I was tired, the light was fading, the surf was becoming dangerous and the really good surfers had gone in. They had warned me to come in but I couldn...t. This was too much fun. But I promised I'd be careful and I'd only ride one more. I waited until a monster began to show and I put all my strength into getting me and my board into the right position to drop in. As my board nosed down the face, I rose to my feet and felt the monster rising from the deep behind me. I knew it was going to be a. "He brought me flowers...that first time. You knowwhat converts look like right after the procedure. I was all swollen,bruised, and when they first told me he was there, I didn't want him tocome in and see me like that." That's significant," she said."Significant why?" Well why would it be important enough to you to be concerned aboutwhat he thought?" I was concerned, and in reality, that was the first inkling I had thatmaybe I had changed inside as well as outside. And that inkling. More

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